The following things are included in the kit:
Several wooden pieces, Some stones, String
Tools I used:
Cutter knife, Wood glue, Scissors, All-purposes glue
Due to the way of production the engravings are only on one side of the components.
To achieve a better look for your model you should engrave the backsides of some components too.
You can use a pointed tool or the knife for that.
For the following components it makes sense:
The arm, the three big parts of the frame and both fork-shaped parts of the weight-basket.
I also recommend to paint all parts before assembling the model.
If you like you may use a scratch brush on some pieces to create wood grain.
At first I glue the guiding boards into their position upon the projectile-table.
The engraved nails help to find the right positions of the connecting cross-beams.
I loose the parts carefully from the frame by using the cutter-knife. There are only some tiny connections between parts and frame to save the construction kit becoming a puzzle.
Now I build the arm, using the following parts:
Glue the square-timber into the hole of the arm in a way that the arm is between both engraved marks of the timber.
The positions for the four ancle-parts are in each of the ancles between arm and timber.
Glue the pin onto the end of the arm in a way that the short end of the pin laps over and points upwards.
In this step I constuct the frame work with the following parts:
You can find a small disc in each hole for the arm axis of both big frame work parts.
Glue the discs onto each end of the timber you glued into the arm.
It's best to start building the frame work with laying down the six connecting cross-beams with the cut out surface on top.
Use the big frame work parts to find a rough size for the space between them. Between the second and the third of those beams you have to put the big frame work part with the support beams for the "tower". This part is the first I glue to both big parts of the frame work. It's position is defined by the vertical beam with the hole for the arm axis.
With the help of the projectile-table you can find the exact positions of all the other cross-beams. The biggest distance between the rows of nails of the projectile-table is at the end of the trebuchet, the second row of nails lays over the glued frame work part with the support beams.
Notice that the first cross-beam is not covered by the projectile-table.
You can also use those rhomb-shaped beams to position the cross-beams. These parts connect the big glued framework part with the last but two cross-beam.
Now the weight-basket. You need the following parts:
Glue the H-shaped elements between the fork-shaped ones.
Now take the five 1mm thick elements with the engraved nails and boards and glue them all around the construction you finished before.
To connect the basket with the arm I need the second shortest of the round timbers.
Four of the thin discs help to keep the round timber and the basket in the right position.
You can glue the round timber to the basket but be sure that the basket can swing at the arm.
Now I build the lock for the cogwheel of the crank and the lock for the arm.
We need the following parts:
I stick the different parts together. For the cogwheel-lock we need the shortest round timber. Glue the lock and the handle to the timber but be sure that the U-shaped part keeps unglued!!!
At the lock for the arm you can glue all parts to the round timber (the shorter one of the both remaining) but the round timber itself has to keep moveable so don't glue it to the frame work parts.
On this foto you can see the positions of both locks:
You are free in your decision where to place the handles and the cogwheel-lock but of course you have to build the crank in a appropriate way then.
For the crank we need the following parts:
We build this component in three steps.
Before glueing everything together it's best to stick the parts upon the round timber and check their position.
Afterwards I remove all parts again and start with the construction.
At first I glue a thin disc to one end of the last round timber (the longest one) followed by one of the handle-wheels and another thin disc.
I put the other handle-wheel and two more thin discs aside so the following parts are left:
I glue these parts together to get two seperate components. The order to glue them is the same like on the foto.
You can use the round timber to make sure that all the holes are positioned exactly but don't glue the parts to the timber at the moment!
Now it looks like this:
I leave the parts of the crank for the moment and take the sting and the little 8-shaped piece.
At first I cut off about 10cm from the string and put this aside, needing it later on!!
I knot one end of my string to one hole of the arm. Then I thread one hole of the 8-shaped thing and afterwards I knot the string to the remaining hole of the arm, and cut the rest of the string off.
But the string between both holes of the arm has to be much tighter than on the foto!
Now I take the cut off rest of the string and knot it to the remaining hole of the 8-shaped piece.
This step is a bit tricky.
Stick the round timber into the hole of that crank-holder where you glued the cogwheel-lock.
Hold the crank component with the cogwheel to the inside of the crank-holder in a way that the round timber slides into the axis hole of the cogwheel.
Now hold the other crank-component in position and move the round timber further.
But before you glue the crank-compenets to the axis round timber you have to stick the loose end of the string (hanging down from the 8-shaped part) inbetween those components. then move the axis right through the other crank-holder befor the glue drys.
Now you can glue a thin disc, the second handle-wheel and another thin disc onto the round timber at the outside of the second crank-holder.
IMPORTANT!!! Don't glue the round timber to the crankholders of the frame work parts!
The whole thing looks like this:
Now I put something heavy inside of the basket and cover it with the little stones.
You can use woodglue to make sure that those stones stay where they should.
For the projectile -sling I cut out a piece of cloth (not included in the kit).
Now I cut the 10cm piece of string I cut of in step 8 and cut it into two.
I knot each half to an end of the piece of cloth.
The loose end of one string has to knot to the end of the arm, the other loose end gets a loop-knot.
A finished trebuchet looks like this:
Here is a link to a german Youtube-video, where I show the mechanism: Video
Have fun with constructing and painting